By the middle of October, most of us have quietly given up on the garden. The tomatoes are finished, the barbecue has a cover on it, and the furniture is out there taking whatever the Atlantic decides to send. That short window between the first cold nights and the first proper storm is the best chance you will get to sort it out — an hour or two now saves a much bigger job in March.
None of the damage happens dramatically. Wood that stays wet for weeks, bolts that never dry out, cushions left in a damp shed: taken one at a time, none of it seems like much. Cumulatively, it turns a perfectly decent set into something you end up replacing early. This is the order worth working through.
Clean First, Protect Second
You cannot protect dirt. Leaf litter, bird droppings and the grey film that builds up on anything left outside all summer hold moisture tight against the surface, which is exactly what you are trying to avoid over winter. Warm water with a small amount of washing-up liquid and a soft brush deals with most of it. Work from the top down, and don't skip the legs and the undersides of tabletops, where grime and mould collect out of sight.
Rinse with a hose, then dry with an old towel or leave the pieces in the sun for an hour. Two cautions. A pressure washer can drive water into joints, lift the grain on timber and strip a finish — it is rarely worth it. And abrasive cream cleaners dull resin and plastic, so keep them for the sink.
Material by Material
Hardwood
Teak, acacia, eucalyptus and iroko all cope with British weather, but they behave differently. Teak does not need oiling and will weather to a soft silver-grey; if you prefer the original honey colour, a clean and an annual oil helps hold it. Acacia and the lighter hardwoods generally benefit from oiling once a year.
Only oil dry timber, on a dry day, with no rain forecast for the next day or so. Oil applied over damp wood traps moisture in and encourages black mould. Thin coats, worked along the grain, wiping off anything left sitting on the surface. If the grain has lifted and feels rough, a light sanding with fine paper beforehand makes a real difference.
Metal
Aluminium frames do not rust, but they can develop a chalky white bloom that wipes off with warm soapy water. Painted steel and wrought iron are a different story: every chip in the paint is an entry point for rust. Sand the spot back, touch it in with matching metal paint, and finish with a coat of furniture wax. If rust has gone through a weld or a joint, that is a replacement part or a welder's job rather than a touch-up.
Synthetic rattan and resin
Sugar soap, a soft brush, a rinse and a dry. The main thing to look for is cracking: water collects inside hollow frames and can sit there for months. Tip each piece forwards and back so anything trapped runs out. On resin, avoid solvent-based cleaners, which leave a dull patch that never quite matches.
Textiles
Cushions, seat pads and parasol canopies are the parts most likely to be ruined. Follow the care label if there is one; otherwise lukewarm water and a mild soap, a thorough rinse, and complete drying before storage. Damp fabric folded into a bag is a mould farm, and the smell is very hard to shift.
Cover, Store, or Both?
The most common mistake is throwing a plastic tarpaulin over damp furniture in October. It keeps the rain off and traps condensation underneath, which gives you a small greenhouse. By January you have black mould on teak and rusty bolts on steel. If furniture is staying outside, use a breathable cover, ideally raised slightly at the bottom or vented, and secured so it cannot flap loose or sag into a pocket that holds water.
If it is going into a shed or garage, skip the cover altogether. A cotton sheet draped over the top is plenty. Airflow matters far more than watertightness — a dry, ventilated outbuilding beats a sealed, damp one every time.
Storing It Properly
- Pick a dry two-day spell. Everything needs to be genuinely dry before it goes away, including under the rims and inside hollow legs.
- Bring the soft things in first. Cushions, parasol canopies, throws and seat pads belong indoors, in a breathable bag or a lidded crate, not in a shed corner.
- Get it off the floor. Pallets, bricks or a shelf. Cold concrete wicks moisture upward all winter.
- Stack with care. A felt pad or a cloth between chair frames stops paint rubbing through. Don't stack four chairs if two sit more comfortably.
- Lift glass tabletops out. Store them upright, wrapped, and never flat with weight resting on them.
- Leave gaps. Cramming everything against a cold wall is how you end up with mould on the sides you cannot see.
- Watch for visitors. Mice and squirrels chew straps, wicker and foam. At the first sign, move anything soft somewhere more secure.
Winter Checks
Once a month, and after any storm, take a slow walk round. Is the cover still on and not sagging? Is there standing water on a tabletop or in a parasol base? Are the joints still tight? Any new rust spots worth touching in?
Snow is best brushed off with a soft broom before it freezes solid. Avoid metal shovels, and don't chip at ice to break it up. Never pour hot water onto frozen metal or glass — the sudden temperature change can crack it. Lukewarm water and a bit of patience will do. It is also worth keeping rock salt and de-icer away from furniture; grit is unkind to metal finishes and to paving alike.
Parasols left furled and damp will go mouldy over winter. Take them down, clean and dry them, and store them horizontally indoors if you have the room.
Late-Winter Reset
On the first dry day from late February onwards, undo all of it. Uncover, check bolts and fixings, and tighten whatever has worked loose over the winter. Look for split timber, chipped paint and fresh rust blooms, and re-oil any bare wood. Wash, dry and air the cushions. If you are using a specialist mould cleaner, patch-test it somewhere hidden first and follow the instructions on the bottle.
Where a piece has structural damage — a split leg, a cracked weld, rot running through a frame — replacing it is usually the sensible call rather than patching something that has to carry weight.
And if anything is still under warranty, check the maker's care guidance before reaching for oils, sealers or a pressure washer, as some treatments fall outside what is covered.
Do all of that and the first warm Saturday in April is mostly a wipe-down, a rearrangement of the cushions, and a decision about where to sit.
Photo: distelAPPArath / Pixabay
